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Ocean Beach

By Paul Lyons

2/19/2007 8:39:04 AM | Number of Comments: 0 | Add Comments +

I remember one day, in the early nineties. It was wintertime - a sunny day between winter storms when the sky is clear and blue. We went to the beach as though we were being pulled by the tide. If you drive to Ocean Beach from the south there is a crest in the road. You go over this crest and the beach is finally visible. I remember on this particular day, the waves were simply the biggest I had ever seen. They were massive things breaking way out, probably on the outer bars. But to attempt to write an essay or even write anything about Ocean Beach is a bit terrifying. Many know so much more about this historic beach, my knowledge or observations will barely scratch the surface of this sublime meeting of land and ocean.

Ocean Beach in San Francisco is the entire beach that runs from the Cliff House along the Great Highway to the cliffs by Fort Funston. One has great views of the Marin Headlands and Mount Tamalpais. In the nineteenth century, it was perhaps but an escape from the city. When Golden Gate Park was built, it was a bit like an idyllic pathway to the Ocean. At the end of the park, by the ocean, the largest windmills in the world pumped fresh water to irrigate the many gardens and plants in this amazing park. Many years later there was a place called "Playland" with roller coasters, rides and surely terrible greasy food. I know this mostly from longtime San Franciscan’s recollections. To the south by the Zoo was a large outdoor pool called Fleishhackers. It was filled with the cold ocean water. You can still see the bathhouse to Fleishhackers along the Great Highway by Sloat but it was closed years ago. Right in front of Fleishackers is often a good surf break. At one point, at this spot was a municipal pier, which is hard to believe, but photos attest to this fact. There are also the remnants of pier posts that can be seen at low tide. The force of the ocean surely had its way with this pier.

Ocean Beach is an open beach and feels the strong tides that go in and out of the San Francisco Bay. As the tide goes out the currents generally will flow to the south out from the bay. One time I went surfing with a friend on a big swell and strong outgoing tide. In an hour and a half we were about a mile and a half south of where we had started. When the tide is rising the currents will flow north, but these are only general tendencies. Ocean Beach has a life of its own and currents, like rivers will take off in a variety of directions depending on the wind and direction of the swell. For this reason, a few years back signs were posted along Ocean Beach warning people of the treacherous waters and rip currents. People drown at Ocean Beach every year.

People run along the beach, walk their dogs, fish, fly kites and sometimes when the weather is fine actually lie around and take in the sun. But the thing that is most fascinating to this observer about Ocean Beach are the waves. While every year there are not many surf days at Ocean Beach, the days that are extraordinary are magical. The best time of year is generally fall and winter. The surf is best on a low tide. When the tide is high the waves tend to back off a bit but on a good swell the tide may mean little. The middle of the beach tends to be bigger. This size maintains further south until Sloat Avenue and then decreases a bit when it meets the cliffs by Fort Funston. The surf is rarely crowded except perhaps during an exceptionally warm weekend. Ocean Beach is a place of humble surfers. Everyone knows that the Ocean is something not to enter overly confident or without knowing ones limits. To lose your board due to a broken lease can mean a half hour swim in negotiating currents and large surf. Every surfer who has surfed Ocean Beach has a story to tell about the swim in or the set that was just to big to believe. The dramas that can unfold are many.

So I went to Ocean Beach on Saturday. The waves were big gnarly looking things. The white water was a bit fierce looking. I was to meet some friends there but knew I would be late. When I showed up they were just getting out of the water. A few rides. A long paddle out. A giant set that came in a basically sent them back to shore. No worse for wear but happy to have been a part of the amazing energy that is Ocean Beach.

No longer in need of any more humbling I bid them goodbye and headed down the coast to a place protected a bit from this unruly swell. Knowing when not to enter the water is one of the great lessons of Ocean Beach.

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